Grub Food Van
/Fitzroy's Grub has established itself as one of the area's most convivial spaces.
Under the guidance of head chef Scott Blomfield, Grub delivers an exciting all-day concept that focuses strongly on lunch and dinner, as well as the successful weekend brunch and functions trade. The kitchen is an advocate of sustainability and together with urban gardening expert Ben McMenamin, Grub’s sustainability ethos is seen through its formidable greenhouse garden and the business as a whole – from ethical supplier chain to worm farm.
Blomfield (formerly of Supernomal, Auckland's pioneering Cru at Sale St., and more recently head chef at Mighty Boy Eatery) has curated a seasonal and considered menu focused on the simplest expression of the highest quality produce, inspired as much by Grub's garden as it is guided by the seasons.
Also from New Zealand, McMenamin has certainly found his home in Melbourne's diverse and world-leading hospitality scene. He has been integral to some of Melbourne's best kitchens, having spent time at Auction Rooms, St. Ali, and Top Paddock, as well as more recent stints at Supernormal and Daylesford’s Lakehouse.
To start, the Middle Eastern influenced dish of roasted cauliflower provided a well crafted combination of earthy flavours and worked in sync with the pickled olive leaf, miso mustard, lemon gel, bonito, almond and black vinegar to whet our taste buds.
The kangaroo tartare was similarly well made - Delicately minced kangaroo was generously topped with umami-laden oyster cream and embellished with horseradish crisps, pepper berries and perfectly seasoned with salt bush.
To follow, our favourite dish of the night, Wild mushrooms with potato fondant, truffle and parmesan cream with pine needle powder was a lesson in harmonious, elegant cooking. The deliciously savoury truffle and parmesan cream and various textures of mushrooms was a masterpiece. Each element was perfectly executed and expertly balanced.
For mains the black pearl barley risotto of crab, was again, superb. Puffy, al-dente grains, coupled with tender morsels of crab alongside supple snow peas, a rich undercurrent of burnt butter emulsion and konbu boasted a wonderful depth of flavour.
Our savoury courses concluded on a high with the spiced lamb shoulder - simply comfort food at its best. We loved the amalgamation of refreshing, zesty and textural elements such as pomegranate, walnuts, glazed witlof, couscous and pickled onions.
An exemplary display of Grub Food Van's versatility, the desserts were fabulous. For something rich and decadent, we recommend the luxurious burnt mandarin, dark chocolate, bush anise, thyme and shortbread. If you want something a little more interesting (and equally as delicious) then our pick is the raw custard apple brulee, ginger tuile, lime caramel and coconut ice cream. You can thank us later.
Eclectic and unique, Grub is at once a greenhouse and dining room, garden and bar. The culinary collaboration between McMenamin and Blomfield is simply magic - expect dishes that glorify the earth, farm and commitment to the old-fashioned principles of hospitality.
Location: 87-89 Moor Street, Fitzroy
Phone: 9419 8991
Link: www.grubfoodvan.com.au